Why is my 1995 honda civic overheating

We could open up the bleeder screw, and there would only be steam coming out for several minutes. There is coolant in the radiator and resevior tank, it just may be getting caught somewhere. Does anyone have any idea what may be wrong with it? WIth the engine off, take the oil cap off and look in there with a flashlight. Try to see if theres any milky looking stuff in there, it would be the mixture of oil and antifreeze..

You can run it by a local shop and have them do whats called a block test, which basically they just pull air from the cooling system through a chemical. And if it turns that chemical a different color from blue to yellow there is a presence of exhaust in the cooling system meaning youve got a blown head gasket. Also if youve got a coolant system pressure tester, you can see if it will hold pressure..

Engine overheating is dangerous in many senses. Not only it is unsafe to drive under this condition but also can cause permanent damage to the engine. The Honda Civic overheating is one such problem that many Honda owners have to deal with.

It mostly occurs in models between and The excessive heat in the car engine can warp the cylinder block or head, leading to an expensive repair. There are plenty of components that can cause this or Honda Civic overheating issue. We will discuss the most frequent ones:. Replacing the radiator can solve the Honda Civic overheating issue because a clogged radiator causes this problem by not allowing the water to flow properly.

Clean the radiator and fill it with antifreeze. Keep the cap open and warm up the car to see if the water is flowing properly. Bubbles in the water indicate a head gasket problem. Otherwise, just seal the radiator with a new radiator cap. If the car is eating up an excessive amount of coolant than it should be, then it must be going somewhere.

Figuring out the problem and fixing it will solve the Honda Civic overheating trouble. The antifreeze can end up either into the ground through a leak or into a component. It turned out to be the fan switch is bad. So I used a jump wire and fixed the problem. Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime. Cheers Was this answer. Bought it about 15K miles back last year. About a couple of months back, I had gone out of town.

It was a hot summer day, so the AC was on and there was a lot of uphill driving. The engine started heating up. I let the car cool down, checked the radiator and the resrvoir and saw it was very low on coolant. So bought coolant Zerex pre-diluted, which mentioned Honda as one of the brands it would work for from a gas station, and topped up the radiator and the reservoir to the MAX level.

Drove back home about 50 miles , and there was no problem. After that, for the next 2 months or so, was driving only in town I live in a small town, so even the longest drive is maybe miles at a stretch.

No problems with overheating or anything. Then last weekend, I was on a long trip again. Another hot day. Was on the highway and it was fine. We didnt have the AC on, and the windows were rolled down.

Took an exit for some coffee, and the temperature gauge started climbing up. Checked the coolant level and it was fine in fact coolant in the reservoir was above the MAX mark. I noticed that the cooling fan wasnt working. So I assumed that was the problem. Let the car cool down, continued with my trip on the highway. The temperature was OK as long as I have driving at 55 and above. But an hour later, when the traffic slowed down due to road work, the gauge started climbing again.

Luckily, the traffic didnt last long, so we were back at high speed and the gauge went to below the midpoint. Whenever the car overheated, I would pop up the hood and the fan would usually not be working. So I googled fan troubleshooting tips and found advice on several forums.

Took the connector off, shorted the pins and the fan started running, so the fan motor was OK. It was mentioned on a couple of forums that I should check to see if the lower hose was cold. It was not. After keeping the car in idling for 10 minutes, both the upper and lower hoses were hot. The upper one was hotter, but the lower one was hot too. So I took this to mean that there probably wasnt a problem with the thermostat or thermoswitch.

Next, I read that air pockets could be stopping the fan from coming on, so I should purge the system. Did that. Fan came on twice while the car was in idling with the reservoir cap open.

So I thought now that the fan was working, things were fine. Took it for a test drive. Took an exit and slowed down after 45 mins of driving, and there we go again. The gauge started climbing up. Popped open the hood, and saw the the fan was actually working. Both the lower and upper hoses were warm though like I said, the lower was was a bit less warmer. Yet the gauge kept creeping up. Drove back again, maintaining high speed and the temperature remained fine. So here are my questions - 1.

Is it still possible that something is wrong with the thermostat or thermoswitch?